Good Gadget, Bad Gadget Pt. III

Obviously I like writing about gadgets.

Mostly because I’m continually amused at some of the things people produce for the kitchen. Like politics, it’s an endless source for humor. And, contrarily, I keep realizing how lost I would be in the kitchen without certain other tools.

From the “Over $100 Things You REALLY Don’t Need Unless You’re a Molecular Cooking Nerd” category come these fine new items being offered “exclusively” in a recent email.

A "food smoker" for $100. To add a bit of smoke flavor to your food.

More

Veggies A to Z

People often ask me what to do with this or that particular vegetable. So I’ve put together a very brief primer with some of my favorite preparations for a variety of veggies, A to Z. (This list is by no means complete, rather just some of the ones that make it to our table the most often. If you have a specific vegetable you’d like some help figuring out, shoot me a message in the “Comments” and I’ll do my best to offer creative solutions.)

I’ve deliberately left out things you already know what to do with (the tomato — which is actually a fruit anyway — lettuce, potatoes, etc.). I’ve also omitted kohlrabi — I have no idea what to do with that thing.

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Artichoke
You can do no better than “steamed” (i.e. boiled) artichoke served with mayonnaise infused with a little fine olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and some garlic shaved on a microplaner. Another good preparation is to steam the artichoke until tender, then spread open the leaves as best you can. Drizzle liberally with olive oil infused with garlic shaved on a microplaner, then sprinkle with salt, lots of parmesan and bread crumbs and bake at 400 for 30 minutes. If you’ve got young, tender artichokes, trim off the top, peel off tough outer leaves until you reach the lighter green inner leaves, and shave on a mandoline. Serve as a salad with squeezed lemon, drizzled olive oil, flaky sea salt and shaved parmesan. (My dear friend, Clay, just reminded me to let people with an artichoke fetish know to check out the Artichoke Festival in May in Castroville, California — the “Artichoke Capital of the World”. 2011 is the 52nd annual version. Marilyn Monroe was the first Artichoke Queen. Clay and I once shared this adventure many years ago, and witnessed countless artichoke-related atrocities.)

Arugula
Italian arugula salad. Upcoming post on this. And in a tri-tip sandwich with aioli on crusty slipper bread. Once again, this will be coming in a post soon.

Asparagus
For thin stalks, toss them with some olive oil and sea salt, and roast on a sheet of foil at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes, until crispy. Medium stalks you can do the same prep, but cook on a hot grill outside. For fat stalks, peel with a potato peeler up to the tips, steam and top with butter, a fried egg and shaved parmesan. Asparagus also makes a great soup cooked in chicken broth, pureed and finished with a little cream.

Beets
Best fresh and not out of a can. Boil, peel, cut into cubes and toss with greens (oak leaf lettuce, arugula, etc.), candied walnuts and blue cheese. Dress with olive oil and sweetened rice wine vinegar. Or make borscht.

Broccoli
I have traumatic memories of steamed broccoli from childhood. I overcame them with an Italian preparation — douse liberally in olive oil, sprinkle with flaky sea salt and crushed red pepper, and cook in a small baking dish in a hot oven until all soft and crispy. You can also add bread crumbs and parmesan for a treat even your picky kids will love.

Cabbage
The three best uses for cabbage, in my humble opinion, are 1) Korean kimchi, 2) shredded in Baja fish tacos, and 3) Irish corned beef & cabbage. Oh, and cole slaw with some good BBQ.

Cardoon
Most people make a look like a dog hearing a high-pitched noise when I mention cardoons. Beloved in Italy, they are relatively unknown in the U.S. Closely related to the artichoke, they are massive gorgeous plants. You eat the stems instead of the blossoms (as with artichoke). They have a celery-like texture and a mild, lemony artichoke flavor. Remove fibrous strings, cut into 2-inch segments and blanch in acidulated boiling water for 20 minutes. Then sauté in olive oil or butter and serve in a pasta. Or dip in egg, flour and then fry in olive oil as a appetizer.

Cauliflower
The can’t-miss preparation for this I discovered when I accidentally forgot that I had cauliflower in the oven and cooked it for 3 hours. It had caramelized and basically turned into candy. Cut or break apart the cauliflower into lots of pieces. Douse liberally in olive oil and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Cook in a 375-degree oven for 60-90 minutes, tossing once or twice, until soft and golden. I also like cauliflower in a pureed soup, with a little cream. Shave white truffles over the top if you’ve got ’em. (And who doesn’t?)

Celery
Celery is a great flavor in other things (i.e. chicken stock, brunoise for bolognese sauce, etc.). On its own, I like it poached, breaded and fried (that’s one preparation, not three!). Or shaved thin and served as a salad with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and a little crumbled blue cheese.

Celery root
One of the great unsung heroic vegetables. With a subtle celery flavor and big meaty potato-ish heartiness. Wash well, peel. And then either make a soup by cooking it a long time in chicken stock, pureeing and adding a little cream at the end. Or grate with carrots and onions and dress as a salad with a French vinaigrette that incorporates a little mayonnaise.

Corn
The preparation that launched a blog! Shuck the ear, brush it with mayonnaise, squeeze lime juice over it, sprinkle with chili powder and flaky salt, and grill on a hot BBQ until golden and brown in places. Crumble queso cotija over cooked corn and serve. I also like to cut the ears off, puree them with water and a little cream, and add at the last minute to a risotto. Corn risotto with grilled salmon will be a keeper in your recipe file.

Eggplant
Cut into chunks, boil in water until soft, drain and mash up, add some sweetened rice wine vinegar, chopped cilantro, cumin and a little tomato paste for a killer Moroccan salad. (I’m planning a Moroccan post soon and I’ll do a better version of this recipe). If you have one of those huge eggplants, cut it into big disks, dip it in egg then bread crumbs, fry in olive oil then sprinkle with salt afterward. Helpful eggplant hint: if you sprinkle salt on the cut pieces of eggplant after you’ve sliced it, the vegetable will release much of its water, which makes it easier to cook.

English peas
Risi i bisi, a Roman rice dish: Heat a quart of chicken stock, add 1 cup arborio rice and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the shelled peas and cook another 10 minutes until rice is done. Spoon porridge-y mixture into soup bowls, top with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped Italian parsley and freshly grated parmesan. Fresh peas are a gift from the gods.

Fava beans
One of my favorites! In the spring when they’re young and fresh, peel the beans from their pod and skins, and serve as a salad with nothing more than fruity olive oil and flaky salt. Or cook in chicken broth, puree and add a little cream for a great soup.

Fennel
Shave thinly on a mandoline and serve as a salad (see above preparation for artichokes, and simply substitute the fennel). Note — the inside of fennel bulbs can be sandy, so be sure to soak and/or wash carefully. I also like fennel caramelized and cooked on pizza. And cooked,  pureed and strained through a fine sieve, it makes a great flan.

Kale
My two favorite kales are Russian kale (which is pretty and feathery when young) and Tuscan black kale (cavolo nero). I like kale sauteed with chopped garlic in olive oil, and then tossed into a pasta.

Okra
This is an odd vegetable but fun to cook with, fun to eat, even fun to say! I skewer them, drizzle with oil and soy sauce, and grill on the barbecue as part of a sumiyaki dinner. They’re also an essential part of gumbo.

Peppers
This is a pretty broad category. Bell peppers I like to roast at a high temperature until blistered, then rest in a plastic bag, peel, cool and make an Italian salad — strips of pepper, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, capers, salt, pepper and a few little strips of anchovy. For peppers like Anaheim, pasilla or poblano, I do chilis rellenos — cook, rest and peel in the same way as above, then carefully open, de-stem and de-seed, and then stuff with cheese of your choice, dip in flour then stiffly whipped egg whites (with yolk folded in at the end) and fry in canola oil until golden on both sides. Serve with a tomato sauce.

Radicchio
Douse with olive oil, sprinkle with flaky salt and grill until wilty. Serve grilled in a salad. Or cut into eighths lengthwise, brush with olive oil, and cook on a pizza with caramelized fennel, sausage and freshly cracked eggs.

Rutabaga
What!?

Spinach
Spinach salad with mustard vinaigrette, bacon and blue cheese. Spinach sauteed in olive oil and garlic as an Italian side dish. Spinach sauteed in butter and ponzu as a Japanese side dish. Here’s a fun technique: Heat about an inch of oil in a wok, fry a few spinach leaves at a time until crispy, and serve on top of grilled fish with butter and lemon.

Summer squash (inclusive of zucchini, yellow squash, etc.)
My yoga teacher sister likes to slice squash in little circles, douse them in olive oil, sprinkle with salt, lay them out on foil and cook until they are caramelized and crispy. This is one of the best preparations. You can also shave them into long, thin strips on a mandoline and use in place of wide noodles as a kind of veggie pasta. Or slice thick, dip in egg and bread crumbs, and fry in olive oil.

Swiss chard
This is one of my favorite veggies! Especially the kind with the golden stalks, which add a gorgeous color to pastas. Chop roughly, sauté in olive in which you have crisped a couple pieces of pancetta. Toss with penne, deglazing the cooking pan with a little pasta water. Crumble pancetta in and top with freshly grated parmesan. My other favorite use for swiss chard is in Mexican tortilla soup, pureed into a smooth silky green soup. I’ll do up a post about this soup one of these days…

Winter squash (inclusive of kabocha pumpkin, acorn squash, butternut squash, etc.)
Roast until caramelized and serve with butter. Or peel and throw in water with an onion, cook for an hour, puree, add salt and pepper to taste and finish with a little cream.

Yam/Sweet potato
I peel these, cut into batons, cook in boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and lightly fry in a large pan in grapeseed oil until golden, then sprinkle with a little kosher salt and a bit of sugar. They’re also great as tempura.

Harvey’s Guss Meat Co.

Is it possible for four people to eat six pounds of porterhouse steak? When my friend, Greg, brought over said meat (handsomely profiled in a previous post, “The Emperor of Steaks”), we figured there was going to be a LOT of leftovers. There was not. Usually my wife and I eat half a pound between us. But this was some seriously good dry-aged meat. We had a first serving. Then a second… None of us could stop. This was dry-aged nirvana from the hallowed coolers of Harvey’s Guss Meat Co. in Mid City L.A.

Meat mural

Our bookkeeper, Joe Gussman, had been telling us for years to come visit his dad’s butcher shop sometime when he was working. I made a mental note but never got around to following up. But one day friend Greg asked me whether I knew of Harvey’s Guss, the fabled L.A. butcher. I connected the dots but had my wife give Joe a ring just to confirm.

Fast forward a couple months after the porterhouse, and I decided to visit Harvey’s Guss myself. I ordered two 2-inch thick rib steaks on the bone — my favorite cut. Just by chance, Harvey was out of town so Joe was in charge when I went to pick up my steaks. The place is located in a strange confluence of streets and cultures — where the Fairfax Ethiopian neighborhood abuts the old Jewish Mid City abuts mini-Tijuanas all around. If you were driving along looking for it you’d probably miss it. Was it in that apartment building I just passed, or was that a warehouse? And you can’t turn on the street where it sits, like water for thirsty Tantalus, just out of reach. So you must drive around and around until you figure your way through the labyrinth. There’s no open sign, no helpful customer service associate to assist you, you enter through a metal security door into a space where white-frocked workers are busy. They wave you in, point you to the office. That’s where Joe (or probably Harvey when he’s around) sits, sorting orders, answering the phone. This is meat at its most glorious, and meat sales at its most elementary. If you want a nice gift box, go to an Omaha Steaks boutique. If you want a bag to put your meat in, bring one.

I got a tour of the dry aging cooler, which maybe all customers get if they ask. I prefer to think it was a privilege of knowing Harvey’s son. Joe graciously consented to my filming his explanation of what I was seeing to share with you. Here it is:

Funny to think when I was younger I didn’t like steak.

In case you don’t feel like clicking over to the links page to find your own way to Harvey’s Guss, here’s the info you need: (And don’t forget, call a day ahead. The Gussmen are busy and have meat to sell…)

Harvey’s Guss Meat Co.
949 S. Ogden Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 937- 4622

http://www.harveysgussmeat.com/home.html

A New Installment of the World’s Best Ribs

I’m a little bit fickle, I’ll admit, with my continuing declarations about the world’s best ribs. That’s because almost every good rack of ribs is the best ribs I’ve ever tasted. You could rub motor oil on a rack of ribs, grill them, and they’d make my blog. I’m quite sure I’ve declared one rib preparation or another “The World’s Best Ribs” on several occasions in this forum alone. But this time I’m pretty sure I’m sharing the world’s best ribs recipe with you. Well, that is, at least until next time.

Hawaiian preparations are always some of the best with ribs — the smoky, fatty richness of the ribs blending perfectly with the sweetness and complex flavors of tropical fruits. One of the best racks I cook includes a marinade/glaze of coconut syrup, pineapple juice and fermented Chinese black beans. The particular recipe below, prepared in the video above, takes its cue from Korean kalbi. Serve it with the monster good Asian red cabbage slaw to win friends and influence people. For four people:

Hawaiian Soy Glazed Ribs

1 large rack baby back ribs
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated on a Microplane grater (or minced)
1-inch piece of ginger, grated on a Microplane grater (or minced)
1 tsp sesame oil
a few shakes crushed red pepper
1 tbsp butter

Peel membrane off the back of the rib rack (use a flat head screwdriver to get started). Cut rack into two or three sections. Salt and pepper the ribs while you make the marinade.

Put brown sugar and soy sauce in a small saucepan with a little water. Add garlic and ginger over medium heat, and simmer until the sauce is thickened. Remove from heat, stir in sesame oil and red pepper, then fold in 1 tbsp butter.

When sauce cools, use half to baste the ribs and marinate an hour at room temperature or overnight in the fridge. Heat a gas grill to medium. Put the ribs on the grill and cook for about 20 minutes on each side, basting frequently with the reserved marinade to create a nice glaze. Cut mini-racks into individual ribs and serve with monster good Asian slaw.

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Monster Good Asian Slaw

1/2 small head red cabbage, grated or finely shredded
3 scallions, sliced into 1-inch segments and then slivered lengthwise
1 small carrot, peeled and grated
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp grapeseed oil
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tbsp mayonnaise
salt & pepper

In a large bowl, toss the cabbage, scallions and carrot. Add remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Chill in the fridge until ready to serve.

Beverage suggestion: Kona Brewing Company Longboard Island Lager, a nice fruity viognier from California’s Central Coast (I like Andrew Murray), mai tai, Anchor Steam

The Skinny Girls Diet

  1. Eat less.
  2. Talk a walk outside (include hills, if possible).
  3. Grow your own food.
  4. Don’t eat apples from New Zealand in July (unless you live in New Zealand).
  5. Give up “fast food” for “slow food”.
  6. Eat with family or friends whenever possible. Talk a lot. Laugh. Linger.
  7. Don’t text while you eat.
  8. Drink a cup of green tea every day.
  9. Get to know the farmers at your farmers market.
  10. Eat more dark green and orange things.
  11. Yoga is good, but it’s not the answer.
  12. “Satisfied” is better than “full”.
  13. Avoid diet beverages. Have a glass of water.
  14. Mayonnaise will not kill you.
  15. Chew slowly and mindfully.
  16. Olive oil, olive oil, olive oil.
  17. Choose heirloom vegetables over genetically modified crops.
  18. If you must eat at Claim Jumper, Cheesecake Factory or Buca di Beppo, one entree will suffice for four people.
  19. Calories are not your enemy. Bad habits are.
  20. Carrots make a great snack.
  21. Quinoa is good, but it’s not the answer.
  22. Drink wine.
  23. Remember that meat comes not from a styrofoam container in the market, but from an animal that was alive not that long ago. Honor that animal. And choose carefully.
  24. Don’t diet. Change.
  25. Try a new recipe at least once a week.
  26. Eat what’s in season.
  27. Take another walk. Stop frequently to smell flowers and look at birds.
  28. Have many dinner parties.
  29. Don’t trust Monsanto or ConAgra.
  30. Read cookbooks just for fun.
  31. You don’t want alcohol and caffeine in the same drink.
  32. Bacon is allowed.
  33. If you’re not hungry, don’t eat.
  34. Don’t eat in front of the TV. Unless it’s football and you’re eating buffalo wings.
  35. Salt is not your enemy. Processed foods are.
  36. Share.
  37. Get a sustainable seafood guide: http://www.montereybayaquarium.org
  38. Shop for food at least three times a week.
  39. Do not get your food at Costco once every two weeks.
  40. Learn to make your own jam. Or olives. Or sausages.
  41. Hug a chef.
  42. When you travel, eat what the locals eat.
  43. Anything — and everything! — in moderation.
  44. Dim sum will lift your spirits.
  45. The best things to put in your mouth come without shrink-wrapped plastic.
  46. Blueberries make a great snack.
  47. Use butter — not margarine, not Country Crock.
  48. Don’t sweat the love handles.
  49. You can’t love food too much. You can only eat too much.
  50. Be thankful every day for what you have. Remember, some people in the world have to eat bugs.

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