Spaghetti, 101 (My Fave Five)

Carbonara

Has there ever been a more perfect, versatile food than spaghetti? Layer-upon-layer of flavors emerging from within coiled strands of toothsome semolina goodness… In Italy, spaghetti is ubiquitous, dressed in myriad creative ways far beyond that ol’ American standard of greasy meatballs and heavy tomato sauce obscuring overcooked noodles. In Italy, it’s the noodle they celebrate more than the sauce. As Mario Batali says, the sauce is the “condiment.” Scroll down a bit and you’ll find recipes for five of my favorite “condiments” — easy, wonderful dishes you can make in as little as 10 minutes!

Meanwhile, here’s three of the best tips you’ll ever get about cooking spaghetti (or any pasta, for that matter):  1.) Salt your water generously before you start cooking the pasta. I typically throw in a heaping tablespoon. 2.) ALWAYS save the pasta water you have cooked the spaghetti in. Very rarely should you actually drain the spaghetti — lift it out instead with tongs and drop it in the sauce. You’ll use the water to moderate the sauciness of your pasta. 3.) DO NOT add olive oil to your pasta water. This is a waste of oil and money. The way to keep your pasta from sticking together is to stir it the first couple minutes it’s in the water, and then once or twice while it’s cooking.

I like to cook a half pound of spaghetti — you can feed 2-4 people (or 10-12 yoga students), depending on how hungry they are. So all of the following recipes are based on cooking a half pound. You could double it to serve more, or to have tasty leftovers in the fridge. (I’m a big tasty leftover guy, myself…) Don’t forget, you’ll want to save the pasta water for several of these recipes.

(Note: Because of ingredients such as butter and pork, several of these recipes will NOT be starlet- or skinny-yoga-student friendly. If you are serving a starlet or skinny yoga student, substitute quinoa for the spaghetti, expeller-pressed sunflower oil for the butter and tempeh for the pork.)


Spaghetti with Butter, Pepper and Parmesan

This is the simplest and perhaps most wonderful of all. You can also substitute 1/4 cup good fruity extra virgin olive oil for the butter if you’d like a lighter, more healthy pasta. But remember, don’t be afraid of butter. And the better quality the butter, salt and cheese, the better the final results. I use Italian butter from the same Parma cows that make Parmesan, Maldon salt and aged Parmesan Reggiano.

1/2 lb spaghetti
1/2 stick butter (1/4 cup)
flaky sea salt and pepper
freshly grated good Parmesan Reggiano cheese

Cook pasta to al dente. Drain briefly in a collander (do not rinse!) Return pasta to cooking pot, toss with butter until all butter is melted. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, toss again, and plate. Top with generous amount of grated Parmesan Reggiano and serve. (You could also sprinkle some chopped Italian parsley over the top for a hint of freshness.)

Spaghetti Carbonara

This is the traditional preparation, which is a whole different animal than the gummy cream-based version you’ve come to know at Olive Garden’s all-you-can-eat pasta bar.

1/2 lb spaghetti
3 oz pancetta (or bacon)
2 tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup grated Parmesan Reggiano, plus extra for grating
1 whole egg and one egg yolk
flaky sea salt and pepper

While pasta water is heating, cook pancetta or bacon to crisp in a pan with olive oil, remove to drain on paper towels and reserve fat in the pan. Cook spaghetti to al dente. Remove with tongs to the pan with the pancetta or bacon fat, bringing a couple tablespoons of pasta water with you. Add pancetta or bacon, broken up into pieces, and heat briefly over high heat, stirring. Remove from heat. Add egg and extra egg yolk and 1/2 cup of Parmesan, and toss to mix. Divide among plates and top with more grated Parmesan, salt and freshly ground pepper.

Spaghetti with Sauteed Greens

This starlet-approved crowd pleaser is perfect for those spontaneous after-yoga-class dinner parties.

1/2 lb spaghetti
1 bunch swiss chard, tuscan black kale or beet greens
3 cloves garlic
1/4 cup olive oil plus extra for drizzling
1 tsp crushed red pepper
flaky sea salt and pepper
Parmesan Reggiano

Cook spaghetti to al dente. While spaghetti is cooking, chop your greens roughly into large pieces. Smash garlic cloves with back of a knife, break up and cook over medium heat in olive oil. As garlic begins to turn golden, add crushed red pepper and toss. Add greens and sauté for five minutes, with a dash of salt, until greens are cooked. Drain pasta, adding 1/4 cup of the pasta water to your greens. Add pasta and cook over high heat for about a minute, or until sauce thickens and binds to pasta. Remove from heat and divide among plates.

Spaghetti with Fresh Clams

You could also use the more familiar linguini in this preparation, which will NOT remind you of the version your grandma in Jersey used to make when you were a kid.

1/2 lb spaghetti
1 lb fresh clams in their shell, scrubbed
3 cloves garlic, crushed with the back of a knife
1 small Spanish chorizo (see La Española Meats under “Links” to order)
1/2 cup wine
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
flaky sea salt and pepper
Parmesan Reggiano

Cook the spaghetti to al dente. While it’s cooking, slice up the chorizo and cook slices in olive oil over medium heat. Break up crushed garlic and add to pan. Add clams and wine, turn heat to medium high and cover. Cook for about 5 minutes, or until all the clams have opened. (Discard any that do not open.) Remove cover and simmer over low heat. When spaghetti is done, transfer from pot to the pan with tongs. Add a little pasta water if needed. Turn heat to high and cook, tossing, for one minute. Remove from heat. Toss in parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Plate the pasta, dividing the clams evenly, and top with some freshly grated Parmesan.

Spaghetti with Tomatoes and Sausage

The simplicity of tomato and pork. You could use turkey or chicken Italian sausage for this if you wanted to. Use colored heirloom tomatoes — green zebra, for example, or golden pineapple — for a vibrant, alternate colored sauce.

1/2 lb spaghetti
1 sweet Italian sausage (or hot if you prefer)
1/4 cup olive oil
3 garlic cloves, smashed with the back of a knife
2 very ripe large tomatoes
flaky sea salt
crushed red pepper
Pecorino Romano

Cook spaghetti to al dente. While pasta is cooking, puree tomatoes in a blender. Remove sausage from casing. Heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat, and cook garlic for 1 minute. Add sausage, breaking up with the back of a wooden spoon as it cooks. Once sausage and garlic have begun to turn golden, add tomato puree and season with salt. Cook over medium heat until sauce thickens. When spaghetti is done, transfer from water to sauce pan, and turn heat to high. Cook for a minute or two, tossing, until the pasta is coated. Dish onto plates, sprinkle with a bit of crushed red pepper and salt to taste, and top with grated Pecorino Romano.

Pomodoro!

10 lbs of heirloom tomatoes on the stove, slowly transforming into sauce

My friend Debra left a message last night:

“Hi. I’ve got a cooking question. I want to make a pomodoro and I’m not sure what to do with the tomatoes. Do I blanch them first and peel them, or do I just chop them up and put them in the pan? Well, you’re not there… so I guess I’ll just have to figure it out myself. Bye!”

Fresh local tomatoes are, in my humble opinion, the greatest treasure of the summer. There are big ones, tiny ones, tart ones, sweet ones, orange and yellow and green and purple ones, some that look like teardrops and others that look like ox hearts. Perhaps, like me, you grow them yourself. I hope, unlike me, you have more than you can use and share with friends. Unlike giant zucchini, tomatoes are always a welcome gift.

Like gazpacho, a simple pasta pomodoro is a seasonal dish that highlights tomatoes at their best. Don’t do too much to this dish, and don’t make it in January. It will be utterly unlike the metallic, chemically tasting pomodoro you’ve ordered at Olive Garden. Better, even, than your favorite jar tomato sauce from Trader Joe’s.

Now back to Debra’s question — to blanch and peel or chop up — I would do neither. I prefer an even simpler method. I throw tomatoes in the blender, give them a rough puree, and set them to a simmer in a pan with olive oil and a bit of crushed garlic. You could add some chopped up tomatoes if you like chunks. I like it silkier. It’s kind of a philosophic question: How do you like your peanut butter — chunky or smooth? Note: skinny starlets and yoga students will love this dish.

Serves 2 (double for 4, etc.)

Pasta Pomodoro

1/2 lb dried pasta (I prefer spaghetti for this, but you can use your favorite dried pasta. Potato gnocchi also goes well with this preparation.)
2 large very ripe tomatoes (or 4 smaller tomatoes or a whole bunch of cherry tomatoes)
3 large garlic cloves, smashed
1/4 cup extra virgin olive, plus extra for drizzling
5 large basil leaves
freshly grated parmesan Reggiano (not the stuff in the green tube)
tsp crushed red pepper
sea salt

Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted water. (Please do not waste your olive oil by putting olive oil in the water.) Add spaghetti or pasta and cook until al dente. While the pasta is cooking, puree the tomatoes in the blender for about 10 seconds, more if you want a smoother sauce. Place tomatoes in a large pan over medium heat with olive oil and crushed garlic. Salt liberally to taste. (When you taste the sauce, it should taste a bit salty… it will disperse in the noodles.)

Stack the basil leaves, roll them up tightly like a carpet and then mince tightly to create a chiffonade.

When the pasta is all dente, use tongs to transfer it directly from the pasta water into the tomato sauce, which should have thickened some. (It’s good if some of the pasta water makes it into the sauce — the starches in the water will help bind the sauce to the pasta.) Turn heat to high and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, tossing frequently, until the pasta is well covered with sauce. Remove from heat.

Plate pasta between two plates, drizzle each with a little additional olive oil, then top each with a sprinkle of sea salt, a sprinkle of crushed red pepper, some freshly grated parmesan and the basil chiffonade. Serve!

(Note: pork lovers could include a crumbled up pork sausage to the sauce while it’s cooking. Seafood lovers might add 8 or 10 anchovy filets, and reduce the salt.)

Wine suggestion: a medium bodied, Italian-style red such as sangiovese or zinfandel.

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