Bivalve Bliss

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” —Jonathan Swift

I’ll admit it, I’m a little bonkers for bivalves. I love scallops grilled or sliced thinly and drizzled with olive oil as carpaccio, I love meaty mussels steamed in wine and cream with thyme, I love clams baked with garlic and butter or boiled with ale and chorizo. But the best of them all, in my humble opinion, is the oyster on the half shell.

(l to r) Malpeque, Fanny Bay, Kumamoto and Wellfleet oysters with grapefruit, fresh wasabi and ponzu

Much has been written about the oyster, and much debated. It’s purported to be an aphrodisiac. I often feel amorous after eating a dozen, but most often I’m also drinking champagne. More

Dawg Days

My father — born on the upper peninsula of Michigan — grew up, among other places, in the Chicago suburb of Evanston. I’ve always felt an affinity and paternal loyalty for the Windy City. Plus, they’ve got Wrigley Field, Charlie Trotter and Rick Bayless, and produced my favorite band, Wilco, and the coolest president ever! And then, of course, there’s the Chicago dog.

I grew up with a Chicago-style hot dog joint named Flooky’s down the street. I had a friend who lived right behind it. I sort of took a good hot dog for granted. More

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