Good Gadget, Bad Gadget Pt. III

Obviously I like writing about gadgets.

Mostly because I’m continually amused at some of the things people produce for the kitchen. Like politics, it’s an endless source for humor. And, contrarily, I keep realizing how lost I would be in the kitchen without certain other tools.

From the “Over $100 Things You REALLY Don’t Need Unless You’re a Molecular Cooking Nerd” category come these fine new items being offered “exclusively” in a recent email.

A "food smoker" for $100. To add a bit of smoke flavor to your food.

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Veggies A to Z

People often ask me what to do with this or that particular vegetable. So I’ve put together a very brief primer with some of my favorite preparations for a variety of veggies, A to Z. (This list is by no means complete, rather just some of the ones that make it to our table the most often. If you have a specific vegetable you’d like some help figuring out, shoot me a message in the “Comments” and I’ll do my best to offer creative solutions.)

I’ve deliberately left out things you already know what to do with (the tomato — which is actually a fruit anyway — lettuce, potatoes, etc.). I’ve also omitted kohlrabi — I have no idea what to do with that thing.

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Artichoke
You can do no better than “steamed” (i.e. boiled) artichoke served with mayonnaise infused with a little fine olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and some garlic shaved on a microplaner. Another good preparation is to steam the artichoke until tender, then spread open the leaves as best you can. Drizzle liberally with olive oil infused with garlic shaved on a microplaner, then sprinkle with salt, lots of parmesan and bread crumbs and bake at 400 for 30 minutes. If you’ve got young, tender artichokes, trim off the top, peel off tough outer leaves until you reach the lighter green inner leaves, and shave on a mandoline. Serve as a salad with squeezed lemon, drizzled olive oil, flaky sea salt and shaved parmesan. (My dear friend, Clay, just reminded me to let people with an artichoke fetish know to check out the Artichoke Festival in May in Castroville, California — the “Artichoke Capital of the World”. 2011 is the 52nd annual version. Marilyn Monroe was the first Artichoke Queen. Clay and I once shared this adventure many years ago, and witnessed countless artichoke-related atrocities.)

Arugula
Italian arugula salad. Upcoming post on this. And in a tri-tip sandwich with aioli on crusty slipper bread. Once again, this will be coming in a post soon.

Asparagus
For thin stalks, toss them with some olive oil and sea salt, and roast on a sheet of foil at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes, until crispy. Medium stalks you can do the same prep, but cook on a hot grill outside. For fat stalks, peel with a potato peeler up to the tips, steam and top with butter, a fried egg and shaved parmesan. Asparagus also makes a great soup cooked in chicken broth, pureed and finished with a little cream.

Beets
Best fresh and not out of a can. Boil, peel, cut into cubes and toss with greens (oak leaf lettuce, arugula, etc.), candied walnuts and blue cheese. Dress with olive oil and sweetened rice wine vinegar. Or make borscht.

Broccoli
I have traumatic memories of steamed broccoli from childhood. I overcame them with an Italian preparation — douse liberally in olive oil, sprinkle with flaky sea salt and crushed red pepper, and cook in a small baking dish in a hot oven until all soft and crispy. You can also add bread crumbs and parmesan for a treat even your picky kids will love.

Cabbage
The three best uses for cabbage, in my humble opinion, are 1) Korean kimchi, 2) shredded in Baja fish tacos, and 3) Irish corned beef & cabbage. Oh, and cole slaw with some good BBQ.

Cardoon
Most people make a look like a dog hearing a high-pitched noise when I mention cardoons. Beloved in Italy, they are relatively unknown in the U.S. Closely related to the artichoke, they are massive gorgeous plants. You eat the stems instead of the blossoms (as with artichoke). They have a celery-like texture and a mild, lemony artichoke flavor. Remove fibrous strings, cut into 2-inch segments and blanch in acidulated boiling water for 20 minutes. Then sauté in olive oil or butter and serve in a pasta. Or dip in egg, flour and then fry in olive oil as a appetizer.

Cauliflower
The can’t-miss preparation for this I discovered when I accidentally forgot that I had cauliflower in the oven and cooked it for 3 hours. It had caramelized and basically turned into candy. Cut or break apart the cauliflower into lots of pieces. Douse liberally in olive oil and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Cook in a 375-degree oven for 60-90 minutes, tossing once or twice, until soft and golden. I also like cauliflower in a pureed soup, with a little cream. Shave white truffles over the top if you’ve got ’em. (And who doesn’t?)

Celery
Celery is a great flavor in other things (i.e. chicken stock, brunoise for bolognese sauce, etc.). On its own, I like it poached, breaded and fried (that’s one preparation, not three!). Or shaved thin and served as a salad with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and a little crumbled blue cheese.

Celery root
One of the great unsung heroic vegetables. With a subtle celery flavor and big meaty potato-ish heartiness. Wash well, peel. And then either make a soup by cooking it a long time in chicken stock, pureeing and adding a little cream at the end. Or grate with carrots and onions and dress as a salad with a French vinaigrette that incorporates a little mayonnaise.

Corn
The preparation that launched a blog! Shuck the ear, brush it with mayonnaise, squeeze lime juice over it, sprinkle with chili powder and flaky salt, and grill on a hot BBQ until golden and brown in places. Crumble queso cotija over cooked corn and serve. I also like to cut the ears off, puree them with water and a little cream, and add at the last minute to a risotto. Corn risotto with grilled salmon will be a keeper in your recipe file.

Eggplant
Cut into chunks, boil in water until soft, drain and mash up, add some sweetened rice wine vinegar, chopped cilantro, cumin and a little tomato paste for a killer Moroccan salad. (I’m planning a Moroccan post soon and I’ll do a better version of this recipe). If you have one of those huge eggplants, cut it into big disks, dip it in egg then bread crumbs, fry in olive oil then sprinkle with salt afterward. Helpful eggplant hint: if you sprinkle salt on the cut pieces of eggplant after you’ve sliced it, the vegetable will release much of its water, which makes it easier to cook.

English peas
Risi i bisi, a Roman rice dish: Heat a quart of chicken stock, add 1 cup arborio rice and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the shelled peas and cook another 10 minutes until rice is done. Spoon porridge-y mixture into soup bowls, top with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped Italian parsley and freshly grated parmesan. Fresh peas are a gift from the gods.

Fava beans
One of my favorites! In the spring when they’re young and fresh, peel the beans from their pod and skins, and serve as a salad with nothing more than fruity olive oil and flaky salt. Or cook in chicken broth, puree and add a little cream for a great soup.

Fennel
Shave thinly on a mandoline and serve as a salad (see above preparation for artichokes, and simply substitute the fennel). Note — the inside of fennel bulbs can be sandy, so be sure to soak and/or wash carefully. I also like fennel caramelized and cooked on pizza. And cooked,  pureed and strained through a fine sieve, it makes a great flan.

Kale
My two favorite kales are Russian kale (which is pretty and feathery when young) and Tuscan black kale (cavolo nero). I like kale sauteed with chopped garlic in olive oil, and then tossed into a pasta.

Okra
This is an odd vegetable but fun to cook with, fun to eat, even fun to say! I skewer them, drizzle with oil and soy sauce, and grill on the barbecue as part of a sumiyaki dinner. They’re also an essential part of gumbo.

Peppers
This is a pretty broad category. Bell peppers I like to roast at a high temperature until blistered, then rest in a plastic bag, peel, cool and make an Italian salad — strips of pepper, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, capers, salt, pepper and a few little strips of anchovy. For peppers like Anaheim, pasilla or poblano, I do chilis rellenos — cook, rest and peel in the same way as above, then carefully open, de-stem and de-seed, and then stuff with cheese of your choice, dip in flour then stiffly whipped egg whites (with yolk folded in at the end) and fry in canola oil until golden on both sides. Serve with a tomato sauce.

Radicchio
Douse with olive oil, sprinkle with flaky salt and grill until wilty. Serve grilled in a salad. Or cut into eighths lengthwise, brush with olive oil, and cook on a pizza with caramelized fennel, sausage and freshly cracked eggs.

Rutabaga
What!?

Spinach
Spinach salad with mustard vinaigrette, bacon and blue cheese. Spinach sauteed in olive oil and garlic as an Italian side dish. Spinach sauteed in butter and ponzu as a Japanese side dish. Here’s a fun technique: Heat about an inch of oil in a wok, fry a few spinach leaves at a time until crispy, and serve on top of grilled fish with butter and lemon.

Summer squash (inclusive of zucchini, yellow squash, etc.)
My yoga teacher sister likes to slice squash in little circles, douse them in olive oil, sprinkle with salt, lay them out on foil and cook until they are caramelized and crispy. This is one of the best preparations. You can also shave them into long, thin strips on a mandoline and use in place of wide noodles as a kind of veggie pasta. Or slice thick, dip in egg and bread crumbs, and fry in olive oil.

Swiss chard
This is one of my favorite veggies! Especially the kind with the golden stalks, which add a gorgeous color to pastas. Chop roughly, sauté in olive in which you have crisped a couple pieces of pancetta. Toss with penne, deglazing the cooking pan with a little pasta water. Crumble pancetta in and top with freshly grated parmesan. My other favorite use for swiss chard is in Mexican tortilla soup, pureed into a smooth silky green soup. I’ll do up a post about this soup one of these days…

Winter squash (inclusive of kabocha pumpkin, acorn squash, butternut squash, etc.)
Roast until caramelized and serve with butter. Or peel and throw in water with an onion, cook for an hour, puree, add salt and pepper to taste and finish with a little cream.

Yam/Sweet potato
I peel these, cut into batons, cook in boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and lightly fry in a large pan in grapeseed oil until golden, then sprinkle with a little kosher salt and a bit of sugar. They’re also great as tempura.

“Better Cooks, Not Just Recipe Followers…”

I was preparing a cooking workshop for a group of women later this week, and got thinking about exactly what it was I was trying to teach them, beyond the type of food they had requested…

A friend of mine recently gave me a cookbook, “Serious Barbecue” by Adam Perry Lang. After perusing various recipes, I turned to the introduction. Lang talked about learning to cook in culinary school and famous French kitchens, and then re-learning from Texas-born ranch hands on a ranch in New Mexico. “My new friends,” he said, “were as passionate as any of the professionals I’d met in French kitchens.” In reflecting on his journey and his reason for writing the cookbook, it was, as he said, to teach people “to be better cooks, not just recipe followers.”

Not trash.

This phrase stood out brilliantly to me. For it is exactly what I’m trying to do with this blog. And with my teaching of other people. I’m trying to do this myself with every meal I prepare — be a better, more mindful cook. When a friend invites us over for a roasted chicken she’s purchased from Costco, and I ask if I can keep the carcass when we’re done, it’s not because I’m weird (despite the startled look on her face); it’s because (as I will explain to her) this roasted chicken is filled with flavor and will make an insanely good stock. And then I leave the bones to her and explain to her how to do it. That is not a recipe, that is cooking.

Next time you’ve get a roasted chicken from Costco or Zankou or wherever — or roast one yourself — when you and your kids are done picking it over, throw the carcass in a big pot with enough water to cover, an onion, a bay leaf and a couple tablespoons of salt, an cook for about an hour. Then strain. You’ll see what I mean — this ain’t Campbells, and you made it with something you were going to throw out. (And you can freeze the stock in plastic baggies in the fridge to make soup whenever the spirit moves you.) This is respecting the animal that gave its life for your meal. This is cooking.

When I was in my 20s teaching English, I decided I didn’t like teaching very much. But now I find I love it. Maybe I just wasn’t teaching the right subject.

Sushi 101

It took me a bloody decade to learn how to properly make sushi rice. I’m going to tell you right here and now so you won’t suffer the same fate.

Crab & matsutake dynamite

Once you’ve got the rice made, the rest is paint by numbers. Although you’ve gotta have a nice sharp knife and really fresh fish, which I get at the Japanese market. They’ve got everything I could want — toro, hamachi, albacore, uni, sweet shrimp, halibut, salmon, etc. If you live in a big city you’ll have no problem finding a Japanese market with sashimi-quality fish. If you live in a reasonably good town, you should at least be able to find some sashimi-grade ahi (Trader Joe’s has sashimi-grade ahi and frozen sashimi-grade scallops, which I’m gonna tell you how to make scallop “dynamite” with…) If you live in the country, you may have to settle for cooked shrimp.

Here’s how to do the rice:

1 cup short-grain white rice (Calrose or sushi rice)
2 cups water
1 tbsp. seasoned rice wine vinegar (or 1 tbsp. rice wine vinegar and 1 tsp. sugar, mixed)

Rinse the rice in water: put the rice in the pot you intend to cook it in, and run some tap water over it. Swish it with your hand. It will become cloudy. Pour the water out, and repeat until it’s no longer cloudy (usually takes me 4 or 5 rinsings/swishings). Then cover with water and let sit for 15 minutes.

Drain the rice (all the water does not need to be drained, just most of it), add your 2 cups of water, cover and place on high heat. Once your rice begins to boil, cook for one minute. (You may need to lift the lid once or twice to prevent it from boiling over.) After the minute, turn to low, cover and cook for exactly five minutes. Once the five minutes is up, turn heat to high again and cook for 30 more seconds. Turn off and leave sitting, covered, for 20 minutes.

When the 20 minutes is up, remove lid and add vinegar, stirring very gently with a wooden spoon or spatula without breaking the rice kernels. When done, spread the rice within the pan and cover with a damp towel until ready to use.

For sushi, you’ll slice your piece of fish width-wise across the grain into sashimi-size pieces. Then you dampen your hands, take about a heaping teaspoon of rice in one palm, place two fingers from the other hand on top of it and fold your hand around it to form a small sushi rice patty. Repeat until you have as many rice balls as you have fish slices. Smear each with a dab of wasabi and place your sushi on top. “Irasshaimase!!!”

Or, you can make the ever-popular scallop dynamite, which I might happily point out makes ample use of mayonnaise (I made it in the above picture with king crab instead of scallops, and delicious matsutake mushrooms which are available in the fall at Japanese markets or in the woods near my mom’s house):

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Scallop Dynamite

1/2 lb large scallops, cut in quarters
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup sliced mushrooms
1/4 cup white onion, cut lengthwise into slivers
1/4 cup shelled edamame beans (soybeans)
Dash of chili sauce (Mexican, srirachi, whatever you’ve got…)
Dash of soy sauce
1/4 cup grated jack, mozzarella or colby cheese
toasted sesame seeds

Mix together all the above ingredients except the cheese and sesame seeds, being careful not to destroy the mushrooms in the process. Place in a small baking dish or a sheet of foil with the edges turned up. Sprinkle cheese over the top, and broil in a hot oven for 10 or 15 minutes, until the cheese is bubbly and golden. Remove.

Put a scoop of sushi rice on each of two plates (four smaller scoops if you’re serving this as an appetizer) and flatten out slightly. Carefully divide the dynamite between the two plates, scooping on top of the rice (you don’t want one guy to get all the yummy golden cheesy part). Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.

Harry’s Bar & the Gondolier’s Song

Sometimes I get a bug for the cuisine of a particular region or city. It’ll happen suddenly, triggered by a conversation or a song or a bit of news I read in the paper.

So it was a few days ago when I saw a picture of Venice, one of my favorite cities, in a magazine. With the exception of a one night break for chicken with the in-laws, this evening marks the third straight night of Venetian food at our house. My wife doesn’t care where its from, so long as it tastes good, and my kids get annoying little geography and cultural lessons in the process. And I’m transported to the winding alleys, surprise bridges and ambient gondolier songs of Italy’s sinking treasure.

What is the food of Venice like? As, compared for example, with the rest of Italy? Being in a lagoon, there’s a lot of seafood. One of the best seafood markets I ever browsed — aside from the fabled Tsukuji in Tokyo — was one I stumbled onto wandering around Venice. I wished I had a kitchen so I could purchase the strange shellfish and mollusk I saw there… In the bars you can snack on cichetti, the Venetian version of tapas, while you sip one of the regions lovely white Friuli. Risotto is ubiquitous, and the Venetians lay claim to the origins of polenta. Like everywhere else in Italy, they’ve got a famous bean soup.

Two of the most fabled dishes associated with Venice are carpaccio and scampi. Indeed, carpaccio was invented here at Harry’s Bar — the beef carpaccio, not the seared ahi tuna kind. Scampi is a particular kind of shellfish related to lobster and also a preparation that in Italy bears little resemblance to the dish that left you reeling with indigestion after that meal at Red Lobster. I’m sharing with you easy and impressive preparations for both. Real scampi is difficult to obtain in the states, so I’ve used large red shrimp. For the carpaccio, you’ll want very high-quality lean beef. Or, if you must, seared ahi.

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Carpaccio

1/2 lb lean steak (hanger steak, filet), half-frozen
capers
1 egg yolk
1 tsp rice wine vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
juice 1/2 lemon
1/2 tsp dijon mustard
dash of Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp cream
salt & pepper

Make the sauce: Put the yolk, vinegar, mustard and a bit of salt and pepper in a bowl and whisk vigorously for a couple minutes, until it becomes foamy with air. Create a mayonnaise emulsion by gradually dripping in half the oil, stirring constantly. Then add the rest in a stream, continuing to stir until it thickens. Then whisk in the lemon juice and Worcestershire, followed by the cream. Sauce should be thick but liquidy. If it is too thick, add a tbsp of milk. If you have a small plastic squirt bottle, put the sauce in there until ready to serve.

With your sharpest knife, slice the steak as thinly as you can, and quickly lay the thin slices out on two large plates, as artfully as you can. (You could stretch this to four people, serving as an appetizer on four smaller plates). Once all the steak has been laid out, drizzle with your mayonnaise sauce, creating a pattern on top. Then sprinkle with capers, squeeze a little more lemon over the top, drizzle with a touch more olive oil, sprinkle with flaky salt and pepper and serve.

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Scampi Venezia

12 large shrimp, still in shells but split down back and cleaned
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tbsp grated parmesan
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp minced Italian parsley
2 large basil leaves, minced
salt & pepper

Toast panko in a pan until browned. Transfer to a bowl. Add garlic, parmesan, parsley and basil and toss. Then toss in olive oil.

Flatten out the shrimp as demonstrated in the video, with the back of a large knife. Lay down on a baking sheet, split side up (shell down), and place a small mound of panko mixture on top of each shrimp. When finished, bake in a 350 degree oven for about 12 minutes, until panko mixture is turning golden. Remove and serve. (Note: these scampi would also be nice served on top of cappellini tossed with olive oil, lemon juice, freshly minced garlic and grated parmesan, salt and pepper).

Wine suggestion: a light red or crisp white such as pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc would work well with both dishes.

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