Black Monday

We returned Monday afternoon from the obligatory Memorial Day pool party/barbecue tired and sunbaked — a family sluggish in the hangover of four barbecues in four days, beginning with the optimistic pop of a pale ale bottle opening Friday afternoon and ending with the fizzle of a yawn 72 hours later.

It was as I was tending to my afternoon duties around the house that I first noticed an ominous sign out on the property: an explosion of white feathers down by the garden. Assuming one of the chickens had not burst of its own accord, I feared the worst. And then I saw another pile of black feathers. My eyes adjusting to the bright light outside and confusedly scanning the property, they came into focus: the limp, heavy bodies of several dead chickens, fallen where they died, reminding me of photos of dead soldiers dropped randomly on battlefields, their limbs contorted at strange angles.

“You don’t have problems with predators?” would-be chicken keepers have often asked me by way of  advice. I would periodically see coyotes gazing longingly from the other side of the fence, bobcats skirting furtively through the wilds at the perimeter of our property, massive sleepy owls eying the fat lazy fowl from the oak branches above and brawny, eagle-eyed hawks circling just beneath the clouds overhead. But no, although we’d lost a chicken here or there over the years, it was always the random bird that had flown over the fence. The yard was secure and our chickens safe… I thought.

I had almost left the dog out that afternoon. But at the last minute called her in as it was hot outside. A fateful decision, as the pig would prove little defensive value. “Which ones?” my wife asked when I told her. Thankfully, we had never named the birds. Three whites ones and one black one. Two, as I said, dead where they had fallen; two missing and only evident by the dusting of their feathers, like snowfall, upon the oak leaves.

As I cleaned up the mess, I stopped and contemplated each of the two dead chickens. They looked something between the pets I’d known, and the plucked hens you’d see in the Asian supermarkets. I had in the past had many conversations with people about what we would do with the chickens when they stopped laying the eggs that we enjoyed eating and which our son sold in the neighborhood. Would we eat them? friends often asked. It was not our intention, they would likely simply live out their lives as pets. Now as I thought if the terror they must’ve experienced running from the jaws of coyotes, I thought perhaps it would’ve been better for them to go in my trusted hands, content until their last moment, to die in the service of feeding those who had fed them for so many years. It’s tricky business, the ethical issues surrounding the gentleman farmer.

The next day, as I was writing this, I heard frantic squaking outside. I looked out, and a coyote was chasing a chicken. Lola, our black lab, took off after the coyote, who beat a thievish retreat back into the shadows and somehow out of the yard. I had my answer, and spent the next several hours tracing the perimeter fence, fortifying what was, upon closer inspection, admittedly a poor job of security.

Looking out the kitchen window — the other side of the house — a little while later, I watched hummingbirds dancing dizzying arcs around the feeder, squirrels scampering about their business, bees buzzing flowers and lizards darting from rock to rock. A flurry of activity that reminded me that life triumphs, the business of the world goes on and each of us, man and bird and coyote alike, take our place in whatever part of the Grand Narrative we are assigned. And that was a comforting thought on a memorial day for chickens we had known and loved.

Confit

In the old days before refrigeration, all those trendy rustic preserved things you see on menus these days — cured meats, preserves, terrines, rillettes, all foods pickled and/or fermented — were a matter of necessity. With the fall harvest came too much of everything. And with the desolation of winter around the corner, you figured out ways to preserve all the extra meats and fruits and veggies and grains.

Chicken confit in the Dutch oven

Fast forward to the era of refrigeration, microwave cooking and frozen entrees, and these foodstuffs became quaint reminders of a more difficult epoch. Perhaps it was nostalgia or the recognition of the enduring deliciousness inherent in many preserved… but as the pace of life grew ever quicker, preserves made a roaring comeback, trailing their salty sour tails like comets into the modern era. And that’s a really good thing. More

Porkcorn, Pig Candy & Other Confections

I was sitting at one of the many new gastropubs that seem to pop up in Los Angeles every week, having lunch with my friend and sometime Skinny Girls sidekick, Greg. We browsed the brews and burgers, trying to narrow our choices, when we noticed “Pig Candy” on the menu.

Skinny Girls porkcorn & a pale ale

“What do you suppose that is?” I pondered.

“Something sweet and salty and fatty and crunchy,” Greg replied.

More

Soupe de Poisson

Bonjour!

While browsing the fish aisle at my favorite Japanese market the other day, I spotted a package of fish bones. Always one to be attracted to the stranger items in the refrigerated section, I added it to my basket.

There really aren’t that many things you can do with a package of fish bones. The most obvious is a French-style fish soup. And since my father was coming for lunch a couple days later to celebrate his 87th birthday and French fish soup is one of his favorite things, that’s what I decided to do! More

Pork Season

Pork season is almost here!

What is pork season, you may reasonably ask?? Is it the time when the young wild piglets sprout up from the earth after a spring rain? Is it the brief window when the pig molts its old skin, and is tender and new beneath before the new skin hardens?

Henri, napping amidst the rosemary

No, no… nothing like that. It is the time when the weather grows warm, and I begin noticing the racks of baby back ribs in the grocery store. More

Eat Less, Move More

My wife has a revolutionary diet philosophy. She calls it, “Eat less, move more.”

Such a simple idea. But I think most Americans do not want to eat less. Or move more. After all, there is a lot of food to be eaten. And a lot of TV to be Tivoed.

Dinner at Claim Jumper, Reno, NV

I can never understand why eating until you’re stuffed is considered an American virtue. Perhaps it has its origins in surviving the Great Depression. Like, you better eat all you can while it’s in front of you, because one day it might not be. But when I eat until I’m stuffed, I don’t feel very good. I can feel my heart struggling in my chest to keep up with the digestive tract’s demands. After a meal, you should feel like taking a pleasant walk, not lying down. More

The Exquisite Comfort of Biscuits

The sky outside this Saturday morning is grey, threatening rain. Wood is stacked on the deck, we’re still in pajamas and have no place in particular to go as the storm closes in. It’s a biscuit kinda morning.

Buttermilk biscuits & sausage

I didn’t grow up in the South. But somewhere along the culinary line, I developed a great appreciations for things Southern — grits, barbecue, juleps and biscuits. More

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