Sexy, Sultry Sangrita

I’m not typically one for trends. And I become sullen when something I’ve “discovered” becomes trendy — i.e. mojitos, small plate dinners, salted caramels, etc. But my friend, Dan, likes tequila. He brings me tequila when he comes back from Mexico. I like Dan. And separately, coincidentally, we stumbled onto sangrita.

Fine tequila, itself, has become something of a trend. Where years ago if you went to a Mexican restaurant, you’d eat enchiladas and have a margarita made with Cuervo — or maybe Don Julio if it was an upscale joint and you had some cash — now you can sample a range of small artisanally produced tequilas and mezcals with your Oaxacan molé or Yucatan cochinita pibil. More

Bivalve Bliss

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” —Jonathan Swift

I’ll admit it, I’m a little bonkers for bivalves. I love scallops grilled or sliced thinly and drizzled with olive oil as carpaccio, I love meaty mussels steamed in wine and cream with thyme, I love clams baked with garlic and butter or boiled with ale and chorizo. But the best of them all, in my humble opinion, is the oyster on the half shell.

(l to r) Malpeque, Fanny Bay, Kumamoto and Wellfleet oysters with grapefruit, fresh wasabi and ponzu

Much has been written about the oyster, and much debated. It’s purported to be an aphrodisiac. I often feel amorous after eating a dozen, but most often I’m also drinking champagne. More

Dawg Days

My father — born on the upper peninsula of Michigan — grew up, among other places, in the Chicago suburb of Evanston. I’ve always felt an affinity and paternal loyalty for the Windy City. Plus, they’ve got Wrigley Field, Charlie Trotter and Rick Bayless, and produced my favorite band, Wilco, and the coolest president ever! And then, of course, there’s the Chicago dog.

I grew up with a Chicago-style hot dog joint named Flooky’s down the street. I had a friend who lived right behind it. I sort of took a good hot dog for granted. More

Pizza 101

Lately I’ve been contemplating getting a wood-burning pizza oven. Our friends have a beautiful built-in outside and they invite me over to cook in it sometimes, and I get oven envy and mope for days. I found a very nifty pre-made one from Italy online (fornobravo.com), and my wife and I are currently in negotiations… Anyway… More

Cape Cod Clam Chowder

I was wandering the fresh fish aisle of my favorite Japanese market, contemplating what to buy for a sushi dinner, when some particularly beautiful clams caught my eye.

Manila clams

I love clams. My family does not. My kids mistrust small chewy dark things, and my wife is generally squeamish about bivalves. More

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