Skinny Girls Roadshow LIVE from Seattle — Mallmann in the Northwest

My pal, Donnie, sent his son Ben over one morning with a cookbook by Francis Mallmann.

“My dad wants you to make this,” he said, opening the thick volume to a bookmarked page.

Francis Mallmann is an Argentine chef from Patagonia who likes to cook over open fire. The recipe was for a grilled cow. In the ingredients section, it called for “One cow, butterflied.” I imagined walking to the meat counter at the Whole Foods and asking for a cow.

Salmon at Pike's Place Market in Seattle

Salmon at Pike’s Place Market in Seattle

Prior to our Labor Day weekend visit to Seattle to see our friends, the Pfaffs, I had suggested to host Bob that we might do an open-fire Mallmann dinner, which wouldn’t be practical at home in Topanga Canyon, where I might burn the better part of drought-stricken Southern California to the ground. More

Multekrem, Revisited

It had been nearly four years since I wrote about cloudberries and the Norwegian dessert, multekrem, on this very blog. It was time to revisit the subject.

Multekrem

Multekrem

I would run into my towering Norwegian pal Pål (with the cool little bubble over the “a”) over the intervening years at school. Pål had brought polar cloudberries that his parents had smuggled in frozen from Norway to our house for dinner, and I was smitten. The cloudberries, folded into whipped cream, became multekrem — one of the most heavenly flavors ever. (Appealing, perhaps, to my northern DNA…) The salmon-colored cream would often enter my head for no reason at all, like a beautiful song from the past. More

La Vie En Rose

In France these days, nobody is drinking red wine. I brought a nice Cotes du Rhone to the home of friends in Paris; they thanked me, tucked it away, and brought out the rosé.

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“It is hot,” friend Sebastien offered by way of an explanation, “We are not drinking red wine.” More

A Lobster Dinner for One

My wife was going out for dinner for a girlfriend’s birthday. The kids would be eating fried chicken and pizza. And here was the rare opportunity to make myself a fancy dinner for one.

Look who's coming to dinner!

Look who’s coming to dinner!

When I was a bachelor living in an apartment in Santa Monica, I often made myself a fancy dinner. I’d open up a bottle of wine, get out the pans, cook up a multi-course meal, light some candles, put on some music and sit down by myself to eat. It felt like it was me taking good care of myself. Many people were surprised when I told them this. More

Tacotopia, Episode #5 — In Praise of Leftovers

Leftover steak is always a welcome thing in our home. It’s uses are many, beyond simply having tasty leftover steak in the fridge: Vietnamese beef salad or spring rolls, pasta Bolognese, steak sandwiches… And, perhaps most deliciously of all, tacos.

The taco

The taco

Even under normal circumstances, I’m always on the hunt for new taco inspiration. This particular day, in addition to the leftover steak, I had some roasted pasilla chiles in the fridge. An exceptional combination, thought I — especially with the addition of some slices mushrooms and monterrey jack cheese. More

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