I felt a bit guilty when I lied to the very kind customs man who welcomed us back into the United States.
“You’re not bringing in any food?” he said.
“No,” I replied.

My local fromagerie in Paris
In fact, my bag was 50% clothes, 50% food. I had several very alive raw milk cheeses, a few packages of salted Italian bottarga mullet roe, a large box of vialone nano risotto rice, five or six cans and jars of foie gras, four boxes of dried pasta and miscellaneous containers of salts. It is probably only the first two that would’ve raised border control eyebrows.